Four days, countless birds, a few sore feet and a whole new appreciation for one of Australia's most remarkable river systems.

I've travelled to some extraordinary corners of the world, but one thing I've learned over my 40 years in travel is that sometimes the experiences that stay with you the longest are the quieter ones.

The ones where you slow down, listen, learn and start noticing things you might otherwise have walked straight past.

That's exactly what happened when Ian and I joined Murray River Trails in South Australia's Riverland.

And yes, there was a fair bit of walking involved!

A river I thought I knew

Growing up in Australia, I certainly knew about the Murray River. It's part of the country's identity, after all.

But knowing of a place and actually understanding it are two very different things.

Over four days, I discovered a river system shaped by floods, droughts, changing water levels and an intricate network of creeks, wetlands and floodplains. There's an extraordinary amount of life here, much of it easily missed unless you're exploring with someone who knows where to look.

And that's where Murray River Trails really shines.

This is a family-founded business built around a genuine commitment to sharing and protecting this remarkable environment. The experience is as much about understanding the river as it is about exploring it.

We chose the Walk. And what a walk it was!



Ian and I joined the four-day, three-night Murray River Walk, one of the Great Walks of Australia.

Our adventure began in Renmark, where we met our fellow walkers and guides, Sam Sharley and Leon Mead.

The first thing worth knowing is that this isn't a conventional walking holiday with marked paths, signposts and neatly maintained trails.

You're walking through the Australian bush, across floodplains, beneath towering river red gums, along creeks and through landscapes that change continually.

The terrain is generally flat, but don't let that fool you into thinking there's no effort involved. There are branches underfoot, uneven surfaces and stretches where you're watching where you put your feet as much as you're admiring the scenery.

Walking poles? Absolutely worthwhile.

Our first day was exceptionally hot. In fact, several members of our group decided to return to the houseboat early, while five of us continued with Sam and Leon.

And here's something I really appreciated: there was no pressure on anyone to push beyond what felt comfortable.

The following days were cooler, and the walking became even more enjoyable.

By the end, I realised that the physical activity was only one small part of the experience.

The wildlife had us stopping constantly

If you know me, you'll know that wildlife is one of the great joys of travelling.

And the Murray River certainly delivered.

We watched kangaroos moving through the landscape at sunrise, including a mother with her joey. There were emus, a koala and so many different birds that I soon gave up trying to remember every species.

One sight that particularly fascinated me was a pair of spoonbills nesting in an abandoned whistling kite's nest.

I would never have spotted that on my own.

That's the difference knowledgeable local guides make. They help you see what is there, understand what you're looking at and appreciate why it matters.

Sam and Leon were wonderful at sharing their knowledge without ever making the experience feel like a lecture.

There was always something new to learn, and usually another reason to stop and look up into the trees.

Our floating home on the Murray

Now, if you're imagining four days of walking followed by a tent and a sleeping bag, think again.

One of the real pleasures of Murray River Trails is that your accommodation travels along the river with you.

We returned each day to a purpose-built eco-houseboat, where comfortable ensuite cabins, welcoming shared spaces and excellent meals awaited us.

There's something rather lovely about finishing a day outdoors, having a shower, enjoying a glass of wine and sitting down to dinner while the river flows quietly past.

And the food deserves a mention of its own.

The meals were varied, generous and thoughtfully prepared, with a focus on local produce and wines. Sharing those meals became one of the highlights of each day.

No packing and unpacking. No changing hotels. Just settling into life on the river.

That suited me perfectly.

From strangers to friends around the campfire

Our little group included people of different ages, backgrounds and walking abilities.

As often happens on these kinds of journeys, conversations began quite naturally.

There was time to talk while walking, share stories over dinner and enjoy the occasional laugh about our adventures along the way.

By the final evening, we had become a wonderfully comfortable little group.

That night we gathered around a campfire, sharing songs and poetry, while Sam played his ukulele.

Nothing elaborate. No staged entertainment.

Just people sitting together, enjoying one another's company and the simple pleasure of being somewhere special.

It was one of my favourite memories of the entire journey.

We also had the opportunity to meet Sam's father, Tony, at the end of our walk, which added another personal connection to the family behind Murray River Trails.

But what if you'd rather explore than walk all day?

Here's where things get interesting.

Murray River Trails also offers the four-day Murray River Safari, and I think it's an excellent alternative for travellers who are drawn to the wildlife, landscapes and learning opportunities but don't necessarily want several hours of walking each day.

The Safari is less about covering distance on foot and more about exploring different parts of the river environment using a variety of activities.

Think small-boat cruising through quiet waterways, gentle guided walks, opportunities to paddle through creeks and billabongs, and excursions into the wider floodplain and its extraordinary lake systems.

There's a strong emphasis on wildlife watching, photography, conservation and understanding how this ecosystem works.

And because the Safari reaches environments beyond those explored on the Walk, it isn't simply an easier version of the same itinerary.

It's a different way of experiencing the Murray.

Guests still enjoy the comfort of the eco-houseboat, excellent food and wine, knowledgeable guides and a small-group atmosphere.

I particularly like the idea of being out on the water early in the morning, quietly watching the birds and listening as the river comes to life.

If you enjoy wildlife and nature but prefer shorter walks, this could be a wonderful fit.

The Walk or the Safari: which would I choose?

Having experienced the Walk myself, I can wholeheartedly recommend it to travellers who enjoy being active and spending several hours outdoors.

You don't need to be a serious hiker, but you should be comfortable walking approximately 10–14 kilometres a day over natural, sometimes uneven terrain.

It's not a race, and there are plenty of opportunities to stop and learn, but it is still a proper multi-day walking experience.

The Safari, on the other hand, would be my recommendation for someone whose main interests are wildlife, photography, exploring different habitats and learning about the river, rather than covering longer distances on foot.

Neither is better.

It really comes down to how you prefer to explore.

And both offer something I value enormously: the opportunity to experience a place with people who have a genuine connection to it.

Why Murray River Trails has stayed with me

I've been fortunate to experience wildlife and wilderness in many parts of the world.

But there was something about the Murray River that caught me by surprise.

Perhaps it was the early mornings, watching kangaroos while the landscape slowly came to life.

Perhaps it was learning about the interconnected wetlands and realising how much depends on the health of this river system.

Or perhaps it was simply the pleasure of spending four days outdoors, walking, listening, laughing and sharing the experience with people who started as strangers.

I suspect it was a combination of all three.

What I do know is that I came away with a much greater appreciation for the Murray River and the people working to protect it.

And that, to me, is what meaningful travel should do.

It should leave you with more than photographs.

It should leave you with stories, new friendships, a little more knowledge and perhaps a different way of looking at the world.

Thank you to Sam, Leon, Tony and the entire Murray River Trails team for sharing this remarkable part of Australia with Ian and me.

If this sounds like your kind of journey, I'd love to help you decide whether the Murray River Walk or Safari would be the right fit and how to incorporate it into a broader South Australian holiday.

Travel Like Jenny — Thoughtful journeys. Personal experiences. Travel that stays with you.